“Standing at the bar on a warm evening, picking at olives as the barman filled me a glass of sherry from the barrel, I could just about have been in Jerez de la Frontera. Except this was the West End and Tabanco.”

“It takes the authenticity of London’s sherry scene to a new level — the first tabanco, serving straight from the barrel, that I’ve seen outside Jerez.”

“There’s also a Sherry Trail around nine central London bars and restaurants. I made it to four: it might have been more had I not found Tabanco has a whole barrel of perhaps my favourite sherry, Fernando de Castilla’s Antique palo cortado. Be warned: some sherries can make you want to linger for a long time.”